![]() SLS often uses 0.1mm / 100 micron layer heights. The recoating blade then deposits one layer height’s powder on the build platform. A thermal source is used to fuse the powder particles together at a specific location on the build platform to develop a solid, 3D printed part.īefore printing, the powder is heated to a temperature just below the material’s melting point. The Selective Laser Sintering process involves tiny particles of polymer powders material being fused together via heat from a high power laser. Fine, soft powders create parts with better surface finish but can create issues during the recoating stage, whereas more tough powders will not look as sharp, but are more reliable and rugged. It is also worth noting that different powders will affect print quality. Layer heights are usually 100 microns / 0.1mm, but some printers can accurately print at 50 microns. This is similar to FDM, just instead of laser spot height you have the nozzle diameter. The two main aspects that affect the quality of an SLS print are the laser spot size, and layer height. Best Selective Laser Sintering Printer Parameters A part being prepared for printing using SLS - note the printing parameters. Then, you can send this file to your 3D printer to print the model/part. You’ll need to either export your design to a printer-compatible file such as an STL file, or simply import your downloaded file into your 3D slicer. If not, you can download 3D printer models from websites such as Thingiverse. To 3D print, you firstly require a 3D software program if designing the part yourself. SLS is commonly used for rapid prototyping offered by a wide variety of 3D printing services. However, now with patents expiring new companies have created lower cost alternatives, such as the Sinterit Lisa, or Sintratec printers. Selective laser sintering was only an industrial method until the patents expired, and almost all SLS printers were industrial machines costing over $250,000. I have not taken any photo with it hence I am not sure how good will it be wrapping around my lens and the picture quality.Īctually after struggling and spending time reading up sites after sites, finding ways to take good photos, I felt that the most important point is we should enjoyed it and not worry about the quality of the photos.A news report from the 1990s when Selective Laser Sintering was still in its infancy. I even bought myself a CLR polarizer filter. I guess price of full frame camera will not drop so drastically. Some might ask why EF-S lens, as Full Frame could be the future. Anyway I still went out and bought myself an Rm2K plus lens, the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens. I guess I am not the type of guys that could switch to photography as a career or I am too old. The more I read the more confuse I become. I have also been hanging at the 2nd floor of Kinokuniya at KLCC for the past 2 weekends reading up on some photography books. I even bought a book on travel photography. ![]() I am still not sure if its up to my expectation yet, I guess my Melbourne trip is going to be a testing ground. I have took over thousand of pictures, ranging from toys, fruits, haze, my sister, my cupboard, my toilet, flowers and all of this is within the house. ![]() So that’s where I finally branch out to other modes where I could set the Flash and also exposure compensation. Z750 photos was overexpose as compare the slightly under expose of 400D. Subsequent reads on some forum, it looks like there is some underexposure issue and majority of it, was raised by green box photographer like me.ĭue to this I have been comparing the 400D with my Casio Z750 and I find that it could be due to the way the ETTL II of 400D works. The result is not as good as I want it to be. So when I first get my 400D, the first mode I tried is the green box. So I am still a casual photographer, in other words the green box user. FYI, I owned a canon Film SLR in which I used only auto mode and others such as landscape, portrait, night scene only, I have not branch out to the creative zone.
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